WW: Beaded Wristlets

Another intriguing pattern for wristlets, this time from an agricultural journal. Unfortunately there is no accompanying picture and no time at present to knit up a test one, but I think they sound quite elegant.—K.

A lady tells how she knits wristlets:

"Take Saxony yarn, any color you wish (mine is black), and about three bunches of black bugle beads; thread them on the yarn, leaving them a short distance apart; cast on forty-seven stitches, knit once across plain; second row, throw a bead up through every other stitch, and so on; leave a loop at one end each time of about eighteen beads. Continue in this way until you have about forty loops, bind off and join, and I think you will have a pair of wristlets that will please any one."

Originally published in the Michigan Farmer and State Journal of Agriculture, November 1884.

WW: Shell-Work Wristlets

This pattern for wristlets is in honor of another article in Piecework magazine, this one about the treatment of needlework in the book The Mill on the Floss. The pattern I chose to accompany the magazine article was historically accurate, both in time and construction, but it was somewhat plain as a result. These wristlets are a little fancier, but true to a period approximately forty years after the setting of the book.—K.

Get two shades of single zephyr (or more if desirable), as it takes from one to one and one-half ounces for a pair.

Cast on with the worsted double (in double stitches) twenty-seven on two needles, eighteen on the third. Nine stitches form one shell, eight shells the usual size for a lady's wrist, nine for a gentleman. Do not knit around plain, but with a single thread seam two, knit one, widen by throwing over thread, knit four, narrow; continue thus around the wristlet.

SECOND ROW.—Seam two, knit two (that includes the loop made by widening), widen, knit three, narrow.

THIRD ROW.—Seam two, knit three, widen, knit two, narrow, and so forth.

FOURTH ROW.—Seam two, knit four, widen, knit one, narrow, and so forth.

FIFTH ROW.—Seam two, knit five, widen, narrow.

This forms one row of shells; then set in another shade of worsted, if you like, and begin as at first. It is pretty knit with two rows of shells of each shade or with but one, according to the taste. Bind off on the last row of shells the last time around. Be sure not to knit plain, but seam, knit, widen, and narrow as usual, binding each stitch over the last. When you knit the first time around, be sure to take the stitches double, making seventy-two around the cuff. Do not knit very tight.

Originally published in Ballou's Monthly Magazine, 1883.

WW: Knitted Braces

This pattern was published, almost word for word (but without attribution), in Godey's Lady's Magazine a year later.—K.

Materials.—Knitting Cotton, No. 6, Messrs. Walter Evans and Co., of Derby; two Knitting Needles, No. 15, Bell gauge.

The great charm in these braces is the readiness with which they can be washed; so that they may be changed at least once a week. The only fittings required are two broad buckles, attached to loops of buckskin leather, through which are slipped leather straps having a button-hole cut at each end. There is a button-hole made in the knitting itself at the other extremity of each brace; so that the only thing to be done is to detach the braces from the buckles, and replace them with a clean pair, every week.

Cast on twenty stitches; and knit in plain garter-stitch about a finger-length, as tightly as possible. Begin the brioche-stitch thus: m 1, slip 1, knit 1. You thus increase to thirty in this row; and after it, do the ordinary brioche-stitch for 3½ to 4½ finger-lengths, according to the height of the wearer. Knit nearly a finger in plain-stitch, contracting to the original twenty in the first row; then, for the button-hole, knit backwards and forwards ten stitches only; then the other ten only; then eight rows the entire width; after which, knit together the two first stitches and then the two last except the edge-stitch, in every alternate row, until ten only are left, when [sic] cast off.

To make a good edge, slip the needle in the first stitch, as if you were going to purl it; and take it off without knitting, in every row, whether plain or brioche, throughout.

Fasten off the ends securely.

Those who knit very loosely should use needles somewhat finer, as it is essential the braces should be closely woven and strong.

Originally published in The Illustrated Magazine, 1860.

Wednesday Workbasket: Pattern for Edging

A departure from complete projects; this pattern for a leafy edging was so perfectly suited to the first day of summer that I couldn't resist choosing it today.—K.

Cast on 17 stitches.

1st Row.—Slip 1, knit 1, then make 1 and knit 2 together 4 times, make 1, knit 1, then made 1 and knit 2 together twice, make 1, knit 2.

2d Row.—Make 1, knit 2 together, purl all but the last 3 stitches, knit 1, make 1, knit 2 together. All the back rows will be the same.

3d Row.—Slip 1, knit 1, then make 1 and knit 2 together 4 times, make 1, knit 3, then make 1 and knit 2 together twice, make 1, knit 2.

5th Row.—Slip 1, knit 1, then make 1 and knit 2 together 3 times, slip 1, knit 2 together, pass the slip stitch over, make 1, slip 1, knit 2 together, pass the slip stitch over, make 1, knit 1, then make 1 and knit 2 together twice, make 1, knit 2.

7th Row.—Slip 1, knit 1, then make 1 and knit 2 together twice, make 1, slip 1, knit 2 together, pass the slip-stitch over, make 1, knit 2 together, make 1, knit 3, then make 1 and knit 2 together twice, make 1, knit 2.

9th Row.—Slip 1, knit 1, then make 1 and knit 2 together 3 times, slip 1, knit 2 together, pass the slip-stitch over, make 1, slip 1, knit 2 together, pass the slip-stitch over, make 1, knit 1, then make 1 and knit 2 together twice, make 1, knit 2.

11th Row.—Slip 1, knit 1, then make 1 and knit 2 together twice, make 1, slip 1, knit 2 together, pass the slip-stitch over, make 1, knit 2 together, make 1, knit 3, then make 1 and knit 2 together twice, make 1, knit 2.

13th Row.—Slip 1, knit 1, then make 1 and knit 2 together 3 times, then make 1, slip 1, knit 2 together, and pass the slip-stitch over 3 times in succession, make 1, knit 2 together, make 1, knit 2.

15th Row.—Slip 1, knit 1, then make 1, and knit 2 together 3 times, slip 1, knit 3 together, pass the slip-stitch over, knit 1, then make 1, and knit 2 together twice, make 1, knit 2.

17th Row.—Slip 1, knit 1, then make 1 and knit 2 together twice, make 1, slip 1, knit 3 together, pass the slip-stitch over, make 1, knit 2 together, make 1, knit 1, make 1, knit 2 together, make 1, knit 2.

19th Row.—Slip 1, knit 1, then make 1 and knit 2 together twice, make 1, slip 1, knit 3 together, pass the slip-stitch over, make 1, knit 2 together, make 1, knit 1, make 1, knit 2 together, make 1, knit 2.

20th Row.—The same as the 2d. Repeat from first row for length required.


Originally published in Arthur's Home Magazine, July 1855.

Wednesday Workbasket: Knitted Garter

Just in time for a June bride, though if historial accuracy is not a concern, you may want to substitute a softer yarn (in both texture and color) for the red Berlin wool. Paragraph breaks were added to make the pattern easier to follow.—K.

Materials.—White knitting cotton, red Berlin wool.

This garter is knitted in rounds with white knitting cotton; at the edge and along the middle some rounds are worked in crochet with red wool. A wide strip of white elastic is drawn through the double knitting, and the garter fastens with a steel clasp.

Cast on 20 stitches, work 120 rounds, and cast off.

On both sides of this strip work in crochet with red wool, always alternately 1 double, 1 chain, missing a sufficient space under the latter.

On the middle round of stitches of the upper part of the knitting work 2 rows of crochet, as follows:—

1st row.—Begin on one side of the knitting, 1 treble on the upper chain of the next stitch of the middle round, 1 slip stitch in the second stitch of the next round of stitches, but 2 above the middle round, *2 treble, divided by 3 chain stitches in the upper chain of the 6th following stitch of the middle round, 1 slip stitch in the 6th following stitch of the 3rd following round above the middle round; repeat from *, so that there is always a space of 5 stitches after the 2 treble stitches and the slip stitch.

When this round has been worked, turn the work, and crochet a similar round, which must be opposite to the first: the treble stitch must be worked in the 2nd chain of the stitches of the middle round still remaining free.

Then draw a piece of elastic, 4-5ths of an inch wide and about 2 2-5ths shorter than the knitted strip, through the latter; fasten the ends, and sew on a steel clasp.

Originally published in The Young Englishwoman, June 1869.

Wednesday Workbasket: Gentlemen's Nightcap

This pattern, published in a London magazine, did not include a picture to aid in translating the directions, but the backstory compensated for the lack of diagram.

In April 1843, "Eliza" had sent in several knitting patterns, which were published in the correspondence section. She had stated at the end, "Perhaps, in return, some of your fair correspondents will have the kindness to favor me with the pattern for a gentlemen's nightcap."

The following month featured this response, which departs from the English habit of using only three needles to knit in the round. It does not appear that the "doubling" results from double knitting, but instead folding one end inside the other. -- K.


SIR—I gladly forward the rules for knitting a gentlemen's nightcap for your correspondent ELIZA.

DOUBLE NIGHTCAP—You will find 5 needles are required. Two stitches to be cast on each of 4 needles, and in the 1st row increase two, and in the 2nd, one plain stitch in each. In the 3rd row the centre stitch on each needle must be seamed, and you must increase on each side of it every other row, until you have attained the middle required. You then knit the 4th and every succeeding row plain, until the cap is of a sufficient length, say 24 to 28 inches ; then decrease the 1st row, and make the other end to correspond with that first knitted.

These directions are taken from a nicely-written work on the subject of knitting, &c. Will your Correspondent EMMA favour me with an explanation of the term "slip and bind," in knitting?


(Emma had contributed lace patterns in February, for those who had "advanced beyond the initiatory steps in the art of knitting.")

 Originally published in The Magazine of Domestic Economy and Family Review, May 1843.

Wednesday Workbasket: French Purse

Thread some beads on fine netting silk; cast thirty-six loops on each of three fine pins No. 20.

First round, plain.

Second round, plain.

Third round, knit four, cast on one, knit one, cast on one, knit four, slip one, narrow, pass the slipt [sic] stitch over, knit four, cast on one, knit one, cast on one, knit four, repeat to the end.

Fourth round to the fourteenth round, same as third.

Fifiteenth round to the eighteenth, plain.

Nineteenth round, with No. 22 pins; cast on one, narrow, knit one, narrow, repeat.

Twentieth round to the twenty-third are plain.

Twenty-fourth round, plain; pass a bead every stitch.

Twenty-fifth round to the twenty-seventh are plain.

Twenty-eighth round, cast on one, knit one, narrow, cast on one, knit one, narrow, repeat.

Now take the No. 20 pins. Twenty-ninth round, knit one, pass a bead, knit one, narrow, cast on one, pass a bead, repeat. The odd stitch which you knit in this round is the cast on stitch in the last.

Thirtieth same as the twenty-ninth, only passing two beads each time instead of one.

Thirty-first and thirty-second round the same, passing three beads each time.

Thirty-third round same as thirtieth.

Thirty-fourth same as twenty-ninth.

Thirty-fifth round, with coarser silk, knit plain.

Thirty-sixth round, all pearl.

Thirty-seventh round, pearl, passing a bead every stitch.

Thirty-eighth and thirty-ninth rounds, the same.

Fortieth round, pearl.

Forty-first round, knit plain.

Forty-second round, resume the fine silk, pearl.

Forty-third round same as the twenty-eighth.

Forty-fourth round to the forty-eighth same as the twenty-ninth.

Forty-ninth round the same as the thirty-fourth.

Now take the No. 22 pins. Fiftieth round to the fifty-second, plain.

Fifty-third round plain, passing a bead every stitch.

Fifth-fourth round to the fifty-sixth, plain.

Fifty-seventh round to the sixty-second the same as the twenty-ninth to the thirty-fourth.

Sixty-third round, take the coarse silk and work to the sixty-ninth round, same as the thirty-sixth to the forty-first.

Resume the fine silk. Seventieth round same as the forty-third.

Follow on the pattern from this round, till you finish the ninety-seventh as the sixty-ninth; divide the stitches six parts of eighteen each; slip the first, knit the next, pass the slipt stitch over, pass a bead, knit thirteen plain, knit two, passing a bead each stitch; repeat to the end of the round, narrowing at the beginning of every eighteen stitches.

Next round, slip the first, knit the next, pass the slipt stitch over, pass a bead, knit eleven, pass a bead, knit one, pass a bead, knit one, pass a bead, knit one, pass a bead; continue the same, narrowing as before, until you come to a point; sew on a tassel and slip in three rings to keep out the parts knit with the coarse silk; draw a string through the top.

The above makes a beautiful bag, worked with thick twist and large pins.

Originally published in Godey's Lady's Book & Magazine, March 1847.

Wednesday Workbasket: Pelerine, or Half Cap

  
White Berlin Wool -- Steel Pins No. 11

Cast on one hundred and thirty loops, knit one plain row.

Second needle -- pass the wool twice over the needle, and take two together; repeat to the end, and pearl back.

Fourth needle -- take two together, knit plain to the end; knit the next three needles plain, decreasing one at each end. The above to be repeated, decreasing one at each end of every needle, until there are seven rows of open knitting, which forms the head piece.

Take twenty-nine stitches off one end of the pin; knit as before, narrowing at the same end of the nedle until there are fourteen loops left, which must be taken off; take up twenty-nine loops on the other side, and knit as before, narrowing at the same end of the needle until the loops are reduced to fourteen. Cast off. This forms the back part; join it up behind, take the stitches at the front, and take up the loops at the back; knit one plain round at the top; next round, pass the wool over twice, then knit two plain rounds, and take off; pick up the loops behind, which will be about eighty; turn the wool over twice to make a row of holes, then knit two plain rounds and take off.

Run a satin ribbon through the holes at the top, and round the face and back. Sew on ribbon strings.


Originally published March 1847.

Wednesday Workbasket: Infant's Shirt

 (by Mrs. Jane Weaver)

With split zephyr, case on 100 stitches, using fine ivory needles, or coarse steel ones, No. 11.

Knit 2 rows plain.

3rd row: Knit 1, bring the thread forward and knit two together; continue to the end of the needle; knit the last stitch plain.

4th, 5th and 6th rows: Knit plain.

Repeat these last 4 rows 4 times; then seam 2 stitches and knit 2 plain, alternately, until you think you have it long enough. The general length of shirts is a quarter or three-eights of a yard long. Bind off for one side.

Repeat this for the other side. Sew the two sides together, leaving 2 inches unsewed at the top for the armholes. Do the same for the other side. Begin where you finished sewing and pick up the stitches (on the right side) and on one side of the armhole; cast on 12 more stitches, then pick up the other stitches on the other side of the armhole and knit 1 row plain; then repeat the 4 rows of holes 4 times. Bind off, and knit the other sleeve in the same way. Join under the arm. Pick up the stitches all round the neck on 4 coarse steel needles. Make 3 rows of holes as before. Bind off and finish with cord and tassels, or ribbons.

Originally published May 1862.

Wednesday Workbasket: Party Hood, or Sortie de Bal

Materials: Two ounces of scarlet Shetland wool; pins, no. 16.

Cast on 78 stitches; knit 3 rows, then commence the pattern as follows:

1st row: Slip 1, a pearl 1, knit 2 together three times, thread forward, knit 1 six times, knit 2 together three times; repeat from a.

2d: Slip 1, a pearl 1, knit 18; repeat from a.

3d: Slip 1, a pearl 1, knit 18; repeat from a.

4th: Slip 1, a knit 1, pearl 18; repeat from a.

These four rows form the pattern, Repeat till one yard is completed. Cast off loosely.

For the crown, cast on 59 stitches, and knit the pattern as before; increase at the beginning and end of each row by making an additional stitch, till your additional stitches at each side are made. Knit, without increasing, till three nails are completed; decrease at the beginning and end of each row for three rows, then knit 2 rows and cast off. Pass the work through a thin solution of gum-water, and pin it out to dry upon a cloth stretched upon the floor. Make a cap with white silk, the size required; stretch the knitting upon it; sew it nearly round, placing the centre parts of each together; sew in the crown; cut lengths of wool and loop into the ends to form a fringe, as in illustrated design.

Originally published November 1855.