This pattern for wristlets is in honor of another article in Piecework magazine, this one about the treatment of needlework in the book The Mill on the Floss. The pattern I chose to accompany the magazine article was historically accurate, both in time and construction, but it was somewhat plain as a result. These wristlets are a little fancier, but true to a period approximately forty years after the setting of the book.—K.
Get two shades of single zephyr (or more if desirable), as it takes from one to one and one-half ounces for a pair.
Cast on with the worsted double (in double stitches) twenty-seven on two needles, eighteen on the third. Nine stitches form one shell, eight shells the usual size for a lady's wrist, nine for a gentleman. Do not knit around plain, but with a single thread seam two, knit one, widen by throwing over thread, knit four, narrow; continue thus around the wristlet.
SECOND ROW.—Seam two, knit two (that includes the loop made by widening), widen, knit three, narrow.
THIRD ROW.—Seam two, knit three, widen, knit two, narrow, and so forth.
FOURTH ROW.—Seam two, knit four, widen, knit one, narrow, and so forth.
FIFTH ROW.—Seam two, knit five, widen, narrow.
This forms one row of shells; then set in another shade of worsted, if you like, and begin as at first. It is pretty knit with two rows of shells of each shade or with but one, according to the taste. Bind off on the last row of shells the last time around. Be sure not to knit plain, but seam, knit, widen, and narrow as usual, binding each stitch over the last. When you knit the first time around, be sure to take the stitches double, making seventy-two around the cuff. Do not knit very tight.
Originally published in Ballou's Monthly Magazine, 1883.
Wednesday, 24 August 2011
Wednesday, 17 August 2011
WW: Knitted Braces
This pattern was published, almost word for word (but without attribution), in Godey's Lady's Magazine a year later.—K.
Materials.—Knitting Cotton, No. 6, Messrs. Walter Evans and Co., of Derby; two Knitting Needles, No. 15, Bell gauge.
The great charm in these braces is the readiness with which they can be washed; so that they may be changed at least once a week. The only fittings required are two broad buckles, attached to loops of buckskin leather, through which are slipped leather straps having a button-hole cut at each end. There is a button-hole made in the knitting itself at the other extremity of each brace; so that the only thing to be done is to detach the braces from the buckles, and replace them with a clean pair, every week.
Cast on twenty stitches; and knit in plain garter-stitch about a finger-length, as tightly as possible. Begin the brioche-stitch thus: m 1, slip 1, knit 1. You thus increase to thirty in this row; and after it, do the ordinary brioche-stitch for 3½ to 4½ finger-lengths, according to the height of the wearer. Knit nearly a finger in plain-stitch, contracting to the original twenty in the first row; then, for the button-hole, knit backwards and forwards ten stitches only; then the other ten only; then eight rows the entire width; after which, knit together the two first stitches and then the two last except the edge-stitch, in every alternate row, until ten only are left, when [sic] cast off.
To make a good edge, slip the needle in the first stitch, as if you were going to purl it; and take it off without knitting, in every row, whether plain or brioche, throughout.
Fasten off the ends securely.
Those who knit very loosely should use needles somewhat finer, as it is essential the braces should be closely woven and strong.
Originally published in The Illustrated Magazine, 1860.
Materials.—Knitting Cotton, No. 6, Messrs. Walter Evans and Co., of Derby; two Knitting Needles, No. 15, Bell gauge.
The great charm in these braces is the readiness with which they can be washed; so that they may be changed at least once a week. The only fittings required are two broad buckles, attached to loops of buckskin leather, through which are slipped leather straps having a button-hole cut at each end. There is a button-hole made in the knitting itself at the other extremity of each brace; so that the only thing to be done is to detach the braces from the buckles, and replace them with a clean pair, every week.
Cast on twenty stitches; and knit in plain garter-stitch about a finger-length, as tightly as possible. Begin the brioche-stitch thus: m 1, slip 1, knit 1. You thus increase to thirty in this row; and after it, do the ordinary brioche-stitch for 3½ to 4½ finger-lengths, according to the height of the wearer. Knit nearly a finger in plain-stitch, contracting to the original twenty in the first row; then, for the button-hole, knit backwards and forwards ten stitches only; then the other ten only; then eight rows the entire width; after which, knit together the two first stitches and then the two last except the edge-stitch, in every alternate row, until ten only are left, when [sic] cast off.
To make a good edge, slip the needle in the first stitch, as if you were going to purl it; and take it off without knitting, in every row, whether plain or brioche, throughout.
Fasten off the ends securely.
Those who knit very loosely should use needles somewhat finer, as it is essential the braces should be closely woven and strong.
Originally published in The Illustrated Magazine, 1860.
Wednesday, 3 August 2011
Wednesday Workbasket: Net for Pony
The oppressive heatwave affecting most of the country these past few weeks has brought out the flies in droves. I can't imagine how much twine or how many hours it would require to make this garment, but I am sure that any pony would be grateful for the protection.—K.
Materials.—Fine twine; coarse purse twist, or knitting cotton No. 6; colored wool, two large netting needles; and a common penholder for a mesh.
Make a foundation of 31 stitches; net eight rows, increased one stitch at the end of each row. Having 39 stitches, leave 13 at each end for the cheeks, and work thus, the 13 in the middle; net to the end of the 13; turn back, net the same stitches, taking the two last as one; turn back, work the row, take the two last loops as one; turn back, net the row, take the two last loops as one; turn back, net the row, take the tow last loops as one. You have thus decreased twice on each side, reducing your original 13 stitches to 9. Work three rows without increase or decrease; in the two following rows you make a stitch at the end of each row; after the fourth row break off your cotton.
Begin at the commencement of the work; net 11 stitches, leaving 2 for the eye; turn back, net to the beginning of the row; net three more rows, decreasing 1 stitch at the end of the first and third; net five more rows without increase or decrease, and four more rows, increasing 1 stitch at the end of the first and third; net a fifth row, the end of which comes under the increase in the preceding rows; then take a bit of cotton, make a loop with it, fasten this loop on your knee, net 2 stitches in it, take up the middle piece and net it; then take another needle and work the second cheek exactly like the first; break off the cotton of the second needle, and, having made a loop and fastened in on your knee as before, net in it two stitches with the first needle, and continue the row along the second cheek.
Your three pieces being thus joined in one, work four plain rows. In the middle of the fifth make 1 stitch, net 1, turn back, net 1; increase one stitch in each of the two following loops; turn back, net 2, increase 1 in the third, net 2, increasing in the last; this is the beginning of a piece in the shape of a diamond, each row being increased in the middle and at the end. When you have 21 stitches, one on each side of the increase in the middle, net 2 loops, take a rug needle, thread it with colored wool or cotton; fasten the wool in the third loop of the row, work with it in 5 stitches, so as to produce 4 whole colored loops; with your netting-needle, work in each of these colored loops in stitches, and continue to net the row (increasing as before in the middle). Within 7 stitches from the end, take your rug needle and colored woo; work in 5 loops with it, to produce 4 whole colored loops; break off the wool, take up your netting-needle, work 3 stitches in each of the colored loops, and finish the row; then work four whole rows, increasing 1 stitch in the middle as before, but decreasing on each side the first and last of the 12 stitches made in the colored loops; continue thus till the decreases meet, after which cease to decrease, but continue to increase in the middle till you have thirty-nine rows in the diamond, counting from the first stitch; baste each side of the diamond to the corresponding part of the head, and, when you have brought the ends to meet exactly, work in the loop- of the side of the headpieces first, on the one side, up to the increases of the beginning; then turn back, work the row, and pick the stitches along the other side of the headpiece up to the increases; work this row backwards and forwards, increasing now not in the middle, but at the end, till you have altogether 84 stitches, the net twelve more rows without increase or decrease, and twelve more, taking the last two loops along; break off the cotton.
Net the ears as follows: Cut off the colored stitches, and work round the opening, decreasing in every other round 1 stitch on each side of the opening, keeping the back of the ear larger to the last; when about six stitches remain, gather them and fasten off.
This completes the fore part of the clothing; the second is a square piece, rather broader than the broadest part of the first—say 100 stitches in width, and 80 rows in length.
To take up the pony-clothing, after getting it washed and starched, if it has been made of white cotton, net or knit a fringe all round; gather the stitches round the openings for the eyes, to bring them to a regular shape, and sew round them a piece of gimp of a moderate width, and a band of the same gimp on the forehead, from the outside of one ear to the outside of the other; then sew on each five strings, each terminated by a tassel; two to fasten round the mouth, two under the head, and the other on the front of the neck.
Originally published in Godey's Lady's Book & Magazine, February 1856.
Materials.—Fine twine; coarse purse twist, or knitting cotton No. 6; colored wool, two large netting needles; and a common penholder for a mesh.
Make a foundation of 31 stitches; net eight rows, increased one stitch at the end of each row. Having 39 stitches, leave 13 at each end for the cheeks, and work thus, the 13 in the middle; net to the end of the 13; turn back, net the same stitches, taking the two last as one; turn back, work the row, take the two last loops as one; turn back, net the row, take the two last loops as one; turn back, net the row, take the tow last loops as one. You have thus decreased twice on each side, reducing your original 13 stitches to 9. Work three rows without increase or decrease; in the two following rows you make a stitch at the end of each row; after the fourth row break off your cotton.
Begin at the commencement of the work; net 11 stitches, leaving 2 for the eye; turn back, net to the beginning of the row; net three more rows, decreasing 1 stitch at the end of the first and third; net five more rows without increase or decrease, and four more rows, increasing 1 stitch at the end of the first and third; net a fifth row, the end of which comes under the increase in the preceding rows; then take a bit of cotton, make a loop with it, fasten this loop on your knee, net 2 stitches in it, take up the middle piece and net it; then take another needle and work the second cheek exactly like the first; break off the cotton of the second needle, and, having made a loop and fastened in on your knee as before, net in it two stitches with the first needle, and continue the row along the second cheek.
Your three pieces being thus joined in one, work four plain rows. In the middle of the fifth make 1 stitch, net 1, turn back, net 1; increase one stitch in each of the two following loops; turn back, net 2, increase 1 in the third, net 2, increasing in the last; this is the beginning of a piece in the shape of a diamond, each row being increased in the middle and at the end. When you have 21 stitches, one on each side of the increase in the middle, net 2 loops, take a rug needle, thread it with colored wool or cotton; fasten the wool in the third loop of the row, work with it in 5 stitches, so as to produce 4 whole colored loops; with your netting-needle, work in each of these colored loops in stitches, and continue to net the row (increasing as before in the middle). Within 7 stitches from the end, take your rug needle and colored woo; work in 5 loops with it, to produce 4 whole colored loops; break off the wool, take up your netting-needle, work 3 stitches in each of the colored loops, and finish the row; then work four whole rows, increasing 1 stitch in the middle as before, but decreasing on each side the first and last of the 12 stitches made in the colored loops; continue thus till the decreases meet, after which cease to decrease, but continue to increase in the middle till you have thirty-nine rows in the diamond, counting from the first stitch; baste each side of the diamond to the corresponding part of the head, and, when you have brought the ends to meet exactly, work in the loop- of the side of the headpieces first, on the one side, up to the increases of the beginning; then turn back, work the row, and pick the stitches along the other side of the headpiece up to the increases; work this row backwards and forwards, increasing now not in the middle, but at the end, till you have altogether 84 stitches, the net twelve more rows without increase or decrease, and twelve more, taking the last two loops along; break off the cotton.
Net the ears as follows: Cut off the colored stitches, and work round the opening, decreasing in every other round 1 stitch on each side of the opening, keeping the back of the ear larger to the last; when about six stitches remain, gather them and fasten off.
This completes the fore part of the clothing; the second is a square piece, rather broader than the broadest part of the first—say 100 stitches in width, and 80 rows in length.
To take up the pony-clothing, after getting it washed and starched, if it has been made of white cotton, net or knit a fringe all round; gather the stitches round the openings for the eyes, to bring them to a regular shape, and sew round them a piece of gimp of a moderate width, and a band of the same gimp on the forehead, from the outside of one ear to the outside of the other; then sew on each five strings, each terminated by a tassel; two to fasten round the mouth, two under the head, and the other on the front of the neck.
Originally published in Godey's Lady's Book & Magazine, February 1856.
Wednesday, 29 June 2011
Wednesday Workbasket: Bag for Clothes
In keeping with my article just published in the July/August edition of Piecework magazine, an item using macrame lace, as it was called in the nineteenth century. The directions for making the bag are fairly vague, in recognition of its simplicity, and adaptable to the materials at hand. Like many macrame designs of the day, a picture is presumed to be worth a thousand words. The macrame pattern is a simple combination of (it appears) loose square knots using alternating ends, with bars made of repeated square knots.—K.
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Another new article, which would find ready sale at fairs, is a bag for soiled clothes, illustrated in Fig. 39. The materials are Macrame lace, lined with silk, satin, or wool goods. The lace extends only two-thirds of the length of the bag, and is finished with a ruche of satin ribbon. The bottom is completed by a handsome bow of ribbon and tassel made of the thread used for the macrame lace. Draw up the bag at the top with silk cord and tassels the shade of the lining. Fig. 40 shows the pattern of the Macrame lace.
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Originally published in Potter's American Monthly, May 1881.
Another new article, which would find ready sale at fairs, is a bag for soiled clothes, illustrated in Fig. 39. The materials are Macrame lace, lined with silk, satin, or wool goods. The lace extends only two-thirds of the length of the bag, and is finished with a ruche of satin ribbon. The bottom is completed by a handsome bow of ribbon and tassel made of the thread used for the macrame lace. Draw up the bag at the top with silk cord and tassels the shade of the lining. Fig. 40 shows the pattern of the Macrame lace.
Originally published in Potter's American Monthly, May 1881.
Wednesday, 22 June 2011
Wednesday Workbasket: Pattern for Edging
A departure from complete projects; this pattern for a leafy edging was so perfectly suited to the first day of summer that I couldn't resist choosing it today.—K.
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Cast on 17 stitches.
1st Row.—Slip 1, knit 1, then make 1 and knit 2 together 4 times, make 1, knit 1, then made 1 and knit 2 together twice, make 1, knit 2.
2d Row.—Make 1, knit 2 together, purl all but the last 3 stitches, knit 1, make 1, knit 2 together. All the back rows will be the same.
3d Row.—Slip 1, knit 1, then make 1 and knit 2 together 4 times, make 1, knit 3, then make 1 and knit 2 together twice, make 1, knit 2.
5th Row.—Slip 1, knit 1, then make 1 and knit 2 together 3 times, slip 1, knit 2 together, pass the slip stitch over, make 1, slip 1, knit 2 together, pass the slip stitch over, make 1, knit 1, then make 1 and knit 2 together twice, make 1, knit 2.
7th Row.—Slip 1, knit 1, then make 1 and knit 2 together twice, make 1, slip 1, knit 2 together, pass the slip-stitch over, make 1, knit 2 together, make 1, knit 3, then make 1 and knit 2 together twice, make 1, knit 2.
9th Row.—Slip 1, knit 1, then make 1 and knit 2 together 3 times, slip 1, knit 2 together, pass the slip-stitch over, make 1, slip 1, knit 2 together, pass the slip-stitch over, make 1, knit 1, then make 1 and knit 2 together twice, make 1, knit 2.
11th Row.—Slip 1, knit 1, then make 1 and knit 2 together twice, make 1, slip 1, knit 2 together, pass the slip-stitch over, make 1, knit 2 together, make 1, knit 3, then make 1 and knit 2 together twice, make 1, knit 2.
13th Row.—Slip 1, knit 1, then make 1 and knit 2 together 3 times, then make 1, slip 1, knit 2 together, and pass the slip-stitch over 3 times in succession, make 1, knit 2 together, make 1, knit 2.
15th Row.—Slip 1, knit 1, then make 1, and knit 2 together 3 times, slip 1, knit 3 together, pass the slip-stitch over, knit 1, then make 1, and knit 2 together twice, make 1, knit 2.
17th Row.—Slip 1, knit 1, then make 1 and knit 2 together twice, make 1, slip 1, knit 3 together, pass the slip-stitch over, make 1, knit 2 together, make 1, knit 1, make 1, knit 2 together, make 1, knit 2.
19th Row.—Slip 1, knit 1, then make 1 and knit 2 together twice, make 1, slip 1, knit 3 together, pass the slip-stitch over, make 1, knit 2 together, make 1, knit 1, make 1, knit 2 together, make 1, knit 2.
20th Row.—The same as the 2d. Repeat from first row for length required.
Originally published in Arthur's Home Magazine, July 1855.
Cast on 17 stitches.
1st Row.—Slip 1, knit 1, then make 1 and knit 2 together 4 times, make 1, knit 1, then made 1 and knit 2 together twice, make 1, knit 2.
2d Row.—Make 1, knit 2 together, purl all but the last 3 stitches, knit 1, make 1, knit 2 together. All the back rows will be the same.
3d Row.—Slip 1, knit 1, then make 1 and knit 2 together 4 times, make 1, knit 3, then make 1 and knit 2 together twice, make 1, knit 2.
5th Row.—Slip 1, knit 1, then make 1 and knit 2 together 3 times, slip 1, knit 2 together, pass the slip stitch over, make 1, slip 1, knit 2 together, pass the slip stitch over, make 1, knit 1, then make 1 and knit 2 together twice, make 1, knit 2.
7th Row.—Slip 1, knit 1, then make 1 and knit 2 together twice, make 1, slip 1, knit 2 together, pass the slip-stitch over, make 1, knit 2 together, make 1, knit 3, then make 1 and knit 2 together twice, make 1, knit 2.
9th Row.—Slip 1, knit 1, then make 1 and knit 2 together 3 times, slip 1, knit 2 together, pass the slip-stitch over, make 1, slip 1, knit 2 together, pass the slip-stitch over, make 1, knit 1, then make 1 and knit 2 together twice, make 1, knit 2.
11th Row.—Slip 1, knit 1, then make 1 and knit 2 together twice, make 1, slip 1, knit 2 together, pass the slip-stitch over, make 1, knit 2 together, make 1, knit 3, then make 1 and knit 2 together twice, make 1, knit 2.
13th Row.—Slip 1, knit 1, then make 1 and knit 2 together 3 times, then make 1, slip 1, knit 2 together, and pass the slip-stitch over 3 times in succession, make 1, knit 2 together, make 1, knit 2.
15th Row.—Slip 1, knit 1, then make 1, and knit 2 together 3 times, slip 1, knit 3 together, pass the slip-stitch over, knit 1, then make 1, and knit 2 together twice, make 1, knit 2.
17th Row.—Slip 1, knit 1, then make 1 and knit 2 together twice, make 1, slip 1, knit 3 together, pass the slip-stitch over, make 1, knit 2 together, make 1, knit 1, make 1, knit 2 together, make 1, knit 2.
19th Row.—Slip 1, knit 1, then make 1 and knit 2 together twice, make 1, slip 1, knit 3 together, pass the slip-stitch over, make 1, knit 2 together, make 1, knit 1, make 1, knit 2 together, make 1, knit 2.
20th Row.—The same as the 2d. Repeat from first row for length required.
Originally published in Arthur's Home Magazine, July 1855.
Wednesday, 25 May 2011
Wednesday Workbasket: Knitted Garter
Just in time for a June bride, though if historial accuracy is not a concern, you may want to substitute a softer yarn (in both texture and color) for the red Berlin wool. Paragraph breaks were added to make the pattern easier to follow.—K.
Materials.—White knitting cotton, red Berlin wool.
This garter is knitted in rounds with white knitting cotton; at the edge and along the middle some rounds are worked in crochet with red wool. A wide strip of white elastic is drawn through the double knitting, and the garter fastens with a steel clasp.
Cast on 20 stitches, work 120 rounds, and cast off.
On both sides of this strip work in crochet with red wool, always alternately 1 double, 1 chain, missing a sufficient space under the latter.
On the middle round of stitches of the upper part of the knitting work 2 rows of crochet, as follows:—
1st row.—Begin on one side of the knitting, 1 treble on the upper chain of the next stitch of the middle round, 1 slip stitch in the second stitch of the next round of stitches, but 2 above the middle round, *2 treble, divided by 3 chain stitches in the upper chain of the 6th following stitch of the middle round, 1 slip stitch in the 6th following stitch of the 3rd following round above the middle round; repeat from *, so that there is always a space of 5 stitches after the 2 treble stitches and the slip stitch.
When this round has been worked, turn the work, and crochet a similar round, which must be opposite to the first: the treble stitch must be worked in the 2nd chain of the stitches of the middle round still remaining free.
Then draw a piece of elastic, 4-5ths of an inch wide and about 2 2-5ths shorter than the knitted strip, through the latter; fasten the ends, and sew on a steel clasp.
Originally published in The Young Englishwoman, June 1869.
Materials.—White knitting cotton, red Berlin wool.
This garter is knitted in rounds with white knitting cotton; at the edge and along the middle some rounds are worked in crochet with red wool. A wide strip of white elastic is drawn through the double knitting, and the garter fastens with a steel clasp.
Cast on 20 stitches, work 120 rounds, and cast off.
On both sides of this strip work in crochet with red wool, always alternately 1 double, 1 chain, missing a sufficient space under the latter.
On the middle round of stitches of the upper part of the knitting work 2 rows of crochet, as follows:—
1st row.—Begin on one side of the knitting, 1 treble on the upper chain of the next stitch of the middle round, 1 slip stitch in the second stitch of the next round of stitches, but 2 above the middle round, *2 treble, divided by 3 chain stitches in the upper chain of the 6th following stitch of the middle round, 1 slip stitch in the 6th following stitch of the 3rd following round above the middle round; repeat from *, so that there is always a space of 5 stitches after the 2 treble stitches and the slip stitch.
When this round has been worked, turn the work, and crochet a similar round, which must be opposite to the first: the treble stitch must be worked in the 2nd chain of the stitches of the middle round still remaining free.
Then draw a piece of elastic, 4-5ths of an inch wide and about 2 2-5ths shorter than the knitted strip, through the latter; fasten the ends, and sew on a steel clasp.
Originally published in The Young Englishwoman, June 1869.
Wednesday, 18 May 2011
Wednesday Workbasket: Lamp Mat in Crochet
The colors suggested for this pattern are quite interesting; I must confess I cannot imagine them working harmoniously together. The dearth of concrete instructions in this pattern make it even harder to visualize, in spite of the black and white engraving.—K.
The material is zephyr of five different shades—black, deep scarlet, orange, sea-green, and white. The centre, in plain crochet stitch, is of sea-green.
Make a chain of five stitches, and join by passing the needle through the first stitch and uniting it to the last. Form five rows of green, widening at first every third, then every fourth stitch.
The next row is of white, in close shell or pineapple stitch.
Again a row of green, four stitches in depth.
The next color is black, then white again, following the pattern, as given in the engraving, in the three colors, black, green, and white.
When the last row is made, take the scarlet for the border. Knit as seen in the engraving, of scarlet and orange, until the last two rows, the edge being of white, and the row next to it black.
The effect of this mat, when it is neatly made, is very beautiful, and it is handsome for either lamp or vase.
Originally published in Godey's Lady's Book & Magazine, January 1862.
The material is zephyr of five different shades—black, deep scarlet, orange, sea-green, and white. The centre, in plain crochet stitch, is of sea-green.
Make a chain of five stitches, and join by passing the needle through the first stitch and uniting it to the last. Form five rows of green, widening at first every third, then every fourth stitch.
The next row is of white, in close shell or pineapple stitch.
Again a row of green, four stitches in depth.
The next color is black, then white again, following the pattern, as given in the engraving, in the three colors, black, green, and white.
When the last row is made, take the scarlet for the border. Knit as seen in the engraving, of scarlet and orange, until the last two rows, the edge being of white, and the row next to it black.
The effect of this mat, when it is neatly made, is very beautiful, and it is handsome for either lamp or vase.
Originally published in Godey's Lady's Book & Magazine, January 1862.
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