Wednesday Workbasket: Gentlemen's Nightcap

This pattern, published in a London magazine, did not include a picture to aid in translating the directions, but the backstory compensated for the lack of diagram.

In April 1843, "Eliza" had sent in several knitting patterns, which were published in the correspondence section. She had stated at the end, "Perhaps, in return, some of your fair correspondents will have the kindness to favor me with the pattern for a gentlemen's nightcap."

The following month featured this response, which departs from the English habit of using only three needles to knit in the round. It does not appear that the "doubling" results from double knitting, but instead folding one end inside the other. -- K.


SIR—I gladly forward the rules for knitting a gentlemen's nightcap for your correspondent ELIZA.

DOUBLE NIGHTCAP—You will find 5 needles are required. Two stitches to be cast on each of 4 needles, and in the 1st row increase two, and in the 2nd, one plain stitch in each. In the 3rd row the centre stitch on each needle must be seamed, and you must increase on each side of it every other row, until you have attained the middle required. You then knit the 4th and every succeeding row plain, until the cap is of a sufficient length, say 24 to 28 inches ; then decrease the 1st row, and make the other end to correspond with that first knitted.

These directions are taken from a nicely-written work on the subject of knitting, &c. Will your Correspondent EMMA favour me with an explanation of the term "slip and bind," in knitting?


(Emma had contributed lace patterns in February, for those who had "advanced beyond the initiatory steps in the art of knitting.")

 Originally published in The Magazine of Domestic Economy and Family Review, May 1843.

Wednesday Workbasket: Knitted Basket

A timely pattern this week. If you knit quickly, you may be able to get this one done in time for the Easter Bunny to fill it come Sunday! -- K.

Materials.— Six shades of 4 thread Berlin wool, in scarlet or any other color, and 4 bone pins No. 6.

With the lightest shade of wool cast on 13 stitches.

1st row—Slip 1, knit 1, * make 1, knit 2 together * 3 times, † make 2, knit 2 together † twice, knit 1.

2d.—Knit 3, purl 1, knit 2, purl 1, knit 1, * make 1, knit 2 together * 3 times, knit 1.

3d.—Slip 1, knit 1, * make 1, knit 2 together * 3 times, knit 2, make 2, knit 2 together, make 2, knit 2 together, knit 1.

4th.—Knit 3, purl 1, knit 2, purl 1, knit 3, * make 1, knit 2 together * 3 times, knit 1.

5th.—Slip 1, knit 1, * make 1, knit 2 together * 3 times, knit 4, † make 2, knit 2 together † twice, knit 1.

6th.—Knit 3, purl 1, knit 2, purl 1, knit 5, * make 1, knit 2 together * 3 times, knit 1.

7th.—Slip 1, knit 1, * make 1, knit 2 together * 3 times, knit 6, † make 2, knit 2 together † twice, knit 1.

8th.—Cast off 8, knit 5, * make 1, knit 2 together * 3 times, knit 1.

This completes one pattern; join on the next shade of wool for another, and so on, changing the shade with every repetition of the pattern. The seventh pattern will be done again with the lightest shade; and 12 patterns will be found sufficient for the edging.

Sew the sides up, and on each of the three needles take up 33 stitches, from the straight side of the edging; knit 2 rounds plain, then knit 1, knit 2 together, knit to within 3 of the end of the needle, knit 2 together, knit 1; repeat this on the other two needles; knit one plain round, and one decreasing one alternately until only 4 stitches are left on each needle. Draw up the opening, and fasten the wool with a coarse embroidery needle. Make a handle of 3 or 4 pieces of fine wire covered with wool or ribbon; and put a round, similarly covered, at the top and bottom of the three rows of open hem to keep the basket in shape.

Originally published in Godey's Lady's Book & Magazine, July 1855.

Wednesday Workbasket: French Purse

Thread some beads on fine netting silk; cast thirty-six loops on each of three fine pins No. 20.

First round, plain.

Second round, plain.

Third round, knit four, cast on one, knit one, cast on one, knit four, slip one, narrow, pass the slipt [sic] stitch over, knit four, cast on one, knit one, cast on one, knit four, repeat to the end.

Fourth round to the fourteenth round, same as third.

Fifiteenth round to the eighteenth, plain.

Nineteenth round, with No. 22 pins; cast on one, narrow, knit one, narrow, repeat.

Twentieth round to the twenty-third are plain.

Twenty-fourth round, plain; pass a bead every stitch.

Twenty-fifth round to the twenty-seventh are plain.

Twenty-eighth round, cast on one, knit one, narrow, cast on one, knit one, narrow, repeat.

Now take the No. 20 pins. Twenty-ninth round, knit one, pass a bead, knit one, narrow, cast on one, pass a bead, repeat. The odd stitch which you knit in this round is the cast on stitch in the last.

Thirtieth same as the twenty-ninth, only passing two beads each time instead of one.

Thirty-first and thirty-second round the same, passing three beads each time.

Thirty-third round same as thirtieth.

Thirty-fourth same as twenty-ninth.

Thirty-fifth round, with coarser silk, knit plain.

Thirty-sixth round, all pearl.

Thirty-seventh round, pearl, passing a bead every stitch.

Thirty-eighth and thirty-ninth rounds, the same.

Fortieth round, pearl.

Forty-first round, knit plain.

Forty-second round, resume the fine silk, pearl.

Forty-third round same as the twenty-eighth.

Forty-fourth round to the forty-eighth same as the twenty-ninth.

Forty-ninth round the same as the thirty-fourth.

Now take the No. 22 pins. Fiftieth round to the fifty-second, plain.

Fifty-third round plain, passing a bead every stitch.

Fifth-fourth round to the fifty-sixth, plain.

Fifty-seventh round to the sixty-second the same as the twenty-ninth to the thirty-fourth.

Sixty-third round, take the coarse silk and work to the sixty-ninth round, same as the thirty-sixth to the forty-first.

Resume the fine silk. Seventieth round same as the forty-third.

Follow on the pattern from this round, till you finish the ninety-seventh as the sixty-ninth; divide the stitches six parts of eighteen each; slip the first, knit the next, pass the slipt stitch over, pass a bead, knit thirteen plain, knit two, passing a bead each stitch; repeat to the end of the round, narrowing at the beginning of every eighteen stitches.

Next round, slip the first, knit the next, pass the slipt stitch over, pass a bead, knit eleven, pass a bead, knit one, pass a bead, knit one, pass a bead, knit one, pass a bead; continue the same, narrowing as before, until you come to a point; sew on a tassel and slip in three rings to keep out the parts knit with the coarse silk; draw a string through the top.

The above makes a beautiful bag, worked with thick twist and large pins.

Originally published in Godey's Lady's Book & Magazine, March 1847.

Remedy for Hard Times

No matter where you turn these days, it seems, signs that we are not out of the woods just yet abound. A friend losing a job he has had for years, a friend making the hard decision to close her yarn shop, budget debates, benefit cuts... the list goes on and on. This "remedy for hard times" was originally published in 1843, almost 170 years ago, but it fitted my mood of today.

We have been asked repeatedly to give our view at length, upon the present state of the country, but we have thought proper, thus far to forbear. We fear that we might be accused of a political bias, foreign to the object of this paper. Still we think it legitimately within the scope of an agricultural journal, to give such views form time to time of the state of the nation as will tend especially to promote the interest of the farmers...

From a letter recently received... we quote a paragraph. Here is the best remedy for hard times that we know of, and if all states will go and do likewise, there will soon be an end of them.

'The people of Kentucky are righting up in pecuniary matters rapidly. The crisis is past. We are buying nothing and selling a good deal, though at low rates. ... Not only have we stopped buying foreign goods, but our people are returning to the old time-honored practice of manufacturing domestics by household industry. The wheel has lain idle for some years, but it is buzzing away now. Hemp, flax, linens, jeans, linseys, woollens, &c., the product of family looms, are substituted for foreign goods.'

American Agriculturalist, New York, May 1843.

Wednesday Workbasket: Bicycle Cap

Materials.-- One ounce of Dorcas Germantown and a fine crochet hook.

Make a chain of five stitches, join in a circle.

First Round.--Two long crochets in every foundation stitch.

Second Round.--Like first.

Third Round.--Two long crochets in every alternate stitch.

Fourth Round.--Two long crochets between every increase.

Fifth Round.--Three long crochets between every increase.

Sixth Round.--Four long crochets between every increase.

Seventh Round.--Five long crochets between every increase.

Eighth Round.--Six long crochets between every increase.

Ninth Round.--Seven long crochets between every increase.

Tenth Round.--Eight long crochets between every increase.

This finishes the crown of the cap.

For the band around the head:

First Round.--Ten long crochet, miss one, all around.

Eleven rounds of long crochet, without increase or decrease.

Originally published in The Dorcas Magazine, April 1885.

A Plea for Knitting

Knitting has a hold on the modern mind as a quintessentially traditional craft -- something every great-great-grandmother did, with universal competence and devotion.

Given this assumption, it is surprising to find how often the "loss" of knitting skills were bemoaned in the nineteenth century. I am reprinting this article in its entirety, in part because I was amused that knitters 150 years later are still using the same arguments and justifications for their craft, and garnering much the same reaction when they knit in public (though probably no longer on a river boat).

What has become of the knitters? Genuine, old-fashioned knitters, we mean, who understand all the mysteries of "heel and toe," "narrowing," and "seam-needle;" and who can, if necessary, knit a pair of men's socks complete in two days? The crocheting and fancy knitting of the present day is, valuing it according to its results, unworthy of occupying the place of this homely and useful employment.

Now and then there is some old lady -- God bless her for preserving the traditions of our youth! -- who still clings to the four slim needles, and, mayhap, the knitting-sheath, and keeps the feet of her grandchildren warm and comfortable. But how few there are of the present generation who know anything about it! Not long since, to pass away a tedious hour on board a river boat, we took from our basket a tiny mitten we were knitting in the good old-fashioned style; and it was amusing to see the number who gathered around, interested in the manner of widening the thumb, and various processes in making the pretty toy complete. Such ignorance as they displayed! I was ashamed for them, and indignant at their mothers, who certainly had never compelled them to knit a daily "atent" of "twenty times round," until from the slowest and most irksome of tasks, it became a positive delight, and they felt lost if they sat down to book or paper without the ever-present knitting.

Knitting is not very profitable employment in one sense. Even when one is a rapid knitter, the result is slow -- still slower if the hand is not perfect master of the work. But knitting should not be considered as steady, daily employment. It is work to be caught up in a spare moment, and dropped as quickly; to occupy the hands at twilight, when it is too dark to see, and still too light to bring out the lamp. It is the work for odd minutes, half-hours and hours -- times when one would otherwise be idle. And when we consider, what is actually true, that we can thus do the winter knitting for a whole family, its results are not so insignificant after all. And every one ought to know, though probably few do, how very much longer hand-knit stockings last than those which are bought already made.

Then there is another argument in favor of knitting. Very many women, in the press of household duties, cannot help but have a half-feeling, whenever they sit down to read, that they are wasting time which might and ought to be otherwise employed; while, if they could call in the aid of the knitting-needles to keep them company, and have a comfortable consciousness that, even as they amused and rested themselves, the stocking for Tommy's chubby foot, or the mitten to cover Freddy's rosy fingers, was progressing in their hands, they would read oftener and longer, and be all the better for it.

It is a homely accomplishment, but a useful one; and, when once acquired, one that the possessor would be unwilling to lose. It is a judicious friend and companion, capable of occupying the attention when required; but ready, when it is desirable, to retire utterly to the background -- asking only the company of the hands -- leaving mind and thoughts free for other matters.

Arthur's Home Magazine, March 1869

Wednesday Workbasket: Shetland Wool Veil for Infants' Wear

 (by Mrs. Jane Weaver)

MATERIALS: 1 oz. of white Shetland wool; bone crochet hook.

Make a ch half a yard in length.

1st row -- 5 ch, miss 2, and work it into the 3rd stitch, * 5 ch; miss 2, join to the next stitch, and * to the end of the row.

2nd Row -- 5 ch, and work it into the middle stitch of the 5 chain loop of 1st row.

The work naturally narrows at each end of every row. Work until the piece is half as wide as when begun; stretch and shape by placing the piece upon a clean napkin, with a damp one over it, then press with a moderately hot iron.

FOR THE BORDER: 2 rows of ch loops, 7 ch to the loop; 1 row of dc, 4 stitches to a group, 1 ch between each group; 2 rows of chain loop, 1 row of dc as before, and finish off with 2 rows of chain loops. This work should all be done loosely and evenly, making it much like lace as possible.

Originally published May 1862.